Once again I am back with another tutorial on demand. Before I start I just would like to say a few things. Everything you will read in this article is knowledge I have skimmed up over the years from other more talented modellers than myself. These are modellers who took the time to explain things to me in order to help me make better models. So I am very happy to pass on the favour.
Secondly, this is not a masterclass tutorial. It is targeted towards gaming models. Hence I simply use techniques that give an impression of what I want to achieve rather than exacting detail. As I have said in other articles all I want is to a achieve a style and look to my army - and this is how I go about it. Having said that, these techniques are basics and you can always embellish and build upon them.
First off I have prepared a figure to use for this tutorial. This figure will be one of the specialists of my third Grey Hunter pack. Both specialists in this pack will have meltas. Therefore he will need a pistol and at least one close combat weapon.
The important thing to remember when putting stuff around the waist of the model is to fill up the the back area around and under the backpack. The space here makes the model look too open. Whether you put something within the space - like a knife or holstered bolter - or cover up the side with a helmet, it has the same overall effect.
Modelling the Large Knife
I use these combat knives a symbol of office for my specialists - that is the plasma, melta and flamethrowers. They are very simple to put together and make the model stand out. They are built out of the knives found in the Khorne Berserkers box set, but it might be more convenient to get some from some online bits store than buying a whole box.
The first thing to do is scape off the chaos iconography from the model and trim the scabbard a bit. I have marked the areas to remove in black.
The best way, in my opinion, to remove this is with a sharp hobby knife - just be careful and take it slowly. After scrapping the iconography away, use files and fine sand paper to touch it up. The scabbard itself should be trimmed with a sprue cutter. This will give you a straight sharp cut.
Styrene strips are cheap and can be bought from any hobby shop. I use the 103 strips shown below for your reference.
When gluing strips on always start with one side first, preferably the side. I rather use a plastic cement rather than a super glue as it gives a stronger bond, even though it might take a bit longer. But super glue works well too.
A quick tip here - always attach the strips to the side that will be covered first - that is with the side attached to the model.
For the buckles I mix a small quantity of Duro (green stuff) and cut up two small balls and placed then on the straps.
Now set the knife aside to dry properly and come back to it after several hours or preferably the next day. With the modelling done, the only problem facing you will be where to attach the knife. Below I have given two of the most common examples. At the back and side. Most of my specialists have their knife attached at the back, and the pick below demonstrates the fit. This allows ample room to attach other stuff on the models like a helmet and a pistol or side arm.
As for myself, I have not chosen where to attach the the knife just as yet. You will just have to wait as I continue this article in two weeks time. Next week I will post the finished Daedalus Large Flyers.
Well that is all for now, I hope you have found this interesting and a bit useful. Either way it was a pleasure and a privilege sharing what I know with you all.