Sunday, January 27, 2013

Anvil Industry Torsos & Bionics

Hi everyone,

I have just recieved some torsos and bionic legs from Anvil Industry and I was quitee impressed with the quality that I though I would write up a short review of what I bought.

First off are the torsos.  I bought several of just two types that I thought would fit in with my Space Wolf army and be useful with any other Space Marine projects of mine.  Below are the pics.


The pics show how they arrived.  For resin they are very clean casts and need very little work before painting.  There are others you can see here, and I might buy the Renaissance Torso as well. 

I also blue-taced some Space Marine parts together to let you see how they fit when assembled.  Overall I think they work very well.


One of the few problems is that the 'Errant pattern' type armour on the right, only fits well with bare heads and helmets with knight-like visors (but I think this is also the case with GW tpyes with gorgets).  Another problem is that you might have to trim the top of the legs for a better fit, but nothing unmanageable.  Otherwise it is plain sailing.

I also bought several 'medium' bionic legs from the same company.  'Medium' sized products are for Space Marine sized models.  They come as a multi-part kit that is very similiar in design construction to Forgeworld's Contemptor Dreadnought.  You can consturct a pair of legs with them.



The great thing about this design is that you can build up a model with two bionic legs, or one bionic leg, or with a bit of modelling you can build half a bionic leg - either the above the knee or blow the knee.  They would make for excellent Iron Hands conversions.

The company have other bionics as well.  The parts designated as 'large' are for Terminators and the 'small' are for normal sized  humaniods.  Overall I suggest you check Anvil Industry out if you are interested in finding parts allowing for some interesting variantion for your 40k Imperial armies.

Farewell and good health



        NR



Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Forgeworld Loken & Abbadon

Hi everyone,

As promised here are the Loken and Abbadon models from Forgeworld, that will be in my possession as soon as they come out - I hope!  I apologize for the quality, but they were already low quality pics from the White Dwarf.
All I can say is they fit my sense of aesthetic - proportioned, not overdone or drowned with detail, and dynamically posed.

I hope you enjoy them if you don't already have the White Dwarf.

Farewell and good health


        NR




Monday, January 21, 2013

A Look At New Chaos Warrior Models

Hi everyone,

I have just taken some quick photos of the new Chaos Warrior models from the February issue of White Dwarf, and I have decided to comment on a few of the them.

First up are my favourite.  They are the Dragon Ogres.  These are one of my preferred GW monsters of all time.  I still have the first metallic one that came out in the 80's. These babies are beauties, and I will certainly be picking up a box of them.
The next are the big guys.  I apologize but I have left my copy White Dwarf at home and I have forgotten their names.  Overall they are not bad, but they are not something I would purchase.  These models come in the same box and you have enough parts to make either or.

Up next are the new Chaos Chariots.  Overall, I am not very impressed with these two.  I think the steads are the only redeeming factor.  Once again, not something I would buy, unless I needed the mounts for some other project.

The next are by far the worst of the new releases.  These are the character models.  I would only take them if they where offered for free.  And if that ever happens I certainly would cut them up for spare parts.  That's my humble opinion.  I swear if they continue to make models like these, they will have to throw their 'premium model' motto out with the garbage and find some other excuse to raise prices.  Having said that, the Troll is not so bad, but not so good either.


The last are a new re-modeled unit of Chosen (at least that is what I think they are called).  I no longer play Warhammer Fantasy (I gave up on it a long time ago), so I would not buy this unit to play with, but they are not bad, and I see myself or others buying them for parts to model Chaos Space Marines.  The modelling options are endless.
The February White Dwarf also has pics of the new Forgeworld adaptations of Abbadon and Loken.  Unfortunately due to corruption they did not come through, but I will try uploading them later on.  These two models are superb.  As a Horus Heresy fan I am really excited.  These models, as well as the Dragon Ogres above, are the redeeming factor for next month's releases in my opinion.  These 30K models are what makes the 'premium' in GW products.

Well that is all. Until next time.

Farewell and good health


        NR



Saturday, January 12, 2013

Talent Not Required: Alternate Chest Plates

Hi everyone,

A few days ago at my gaming club a fellow member saw my Space Wolf Priest and asked how I altered the Space Marine's chest plate.  So I decided, like I usually do, to make a blog entry out of it.  So my friend Michael, this is for you.

There are seven standard Space Marine torsos that make up the basic armour marks from I to VII (or is it 8?), besides several variations of each.  Personally, my favourite is the Mark IV - the one Forgeworld uses for the Red Scorpions.  So today's quick tutorial will be on how I do my Mark IV variant.

First off, I just would like to say that there are probably easier ways to do this, but I adopt this method because - as you will see - it offers advantages for ulterior work which I find useful.

So stage one is choosing the torso.  I always go for the Space Marine torsos with the wings on them.  I choose this for several reasons.  First because I don't really like them.  I prefer to use torsos without the Imperial wings on my Space Wolves.  Second is because I have a lot of them so I might as well put them to good use.  Thirdly, the wings offer a good surface for the putty to adhere to.


In stage two just simply cut off the skull and the inner wings, as well as the end of the wings as they taper to the top.  Do this with a sharp hobby knife and always cut away from your fingers!

                                   

Stage three is were the fun begins. This is where we start to add some putty.  Now for this kind of work I recommend putty that dries to a rock hard consistency.  Epoxy putties like Magic Sculpt, Milliput and Aves Sculpt are all suitable.  Try to avoid putties like Duro (Green Stuff) that cure to a bendable plastic-like consistency.  The reason is that you will need to sand paper these down and the above putties give a very smooth finish while this is a bit more difficult to achieve with putties like Duro.  As you can see from the pic below make several rolls of putty and place them into the shape required.  Use the edges of the Imperial eagle as a layout to get an equal symmetry.


For stage five - get your favourite sculpting tool and spread the epoxy putty out into the shape required.  In this case a Mark IV breast plate.  Please note that this is just the first application of putty - the roughing in part - so you do not need to get it correct in this stage.  Let it dry for several hours or use a heating lamp to speed up curing time. Then add another application of putty to get the final shape.  Add as many applications as you need to get it right.


In the last stage, when the putty has dried and you are happy with the basic shape, just sand down the breast plate lightly with medium sand paper and then with fine sand paper for a smooth finish.  

For the piping I use the power cables from Dragon Forge. File down one side about a quarter of the diameter and fit and glue into place.  Now take some putty - in this case I used Duro - and shape a small ball to make the joint.


And viola! That is it.  A variant of the mark IV Space Marine chest plate.  I have made five of these for my Wolf Guard in standard armour.  The flat surface allows you to add Forgeworld brass etched symbols or you can add rivets or emboss it with further sculpting.  Another idea is to add a gorget or a further yet smaller layer. 

In fact this is why I use this method.  Adding more epoxy putty for embossing is easier when done on an epoxy putty surface.  If I had used a piece of cut out plastic it would have been a bit more problematic as putty does not stick as readily to plastic as it does to hardened putty.

I hope you find it useful.  So until next time,

Farewell and good health



        NR



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