I have finally finished the second part of this article. I am sorry I took so long to post this but the recent news from the blogosphere about Games Workshop closing down its Specialist Games support got my feathers all ruffled up. I spent three days talking with my gaming group and summing up the situation. I had to determine whether or not to continue playing and collecting Epic and Warmaster - two of my favourite games. I will be writing up a post about this for next Wednesday. In the meantime let's continue with the article.
Helmets are the easiest thing in the world to attach. In fact, I am mentioning it here just for the benefit of those who are brand spanking new to the hobby. Basically in order to attach a Space Marine helmet to the Space Marine body, all one has to do is remove the neck piece with a hobby knife.
Putting it all Together
There is no fixed rule to accessorizing your model. Some modelers and gamers follow their whims, others have a systematic approach, while others combine both methods. I belong to the latter.
Below is an arrangement I like to use quite often - and not just with Space Marines. It is an arrangement I like to use with running poses. As you can see, the sword and the helmet are placed in a way that complements the action of the model. The drawback is that one cannot place a hand gun (such as a Bolt pistol) on the side.
At this point it is a good idea to to attach the base of any furs on the loin area. This is a very simple simple procedure that I have already covered in another tutorial but which I will cover quickly here.
Mix some green stuff together. For the base, use a ratio of 3 parts blue and 1 part yellow. This will yield a tougher, harder base to work on. Then roll out the putty using talcum powder to avoid it sticking to everything.
Then, all you have to do is cut out the desired shape and attach it to the groin area of the model as in the pic above. Cutting out the basic shape on a piece of paper first and using it as a negative to cut the putty around is also a good idea. At this point set the model aside and let it dry. Do not sculpt in fur at this stage.
One more point I would like to make is that there are several companies that produce ready made furs that are of excellent quality, and which I have bought and will use. The problem with these pre-casted furs is that they are very inflexible and are not very suited for action poses; where you want your fur to have an organically flowing pose that reflects the motion of your model.
If there is one thing I love doing is pouches. Besides being easy to do, and full of character - they also fit well with the Viking/barbarian theme of the Space Wolves. These accessories are also an excellent tool to fill in spaces on your model, as they can be of any size and shape. For this tutorial I will be doing a round pouch. To begin, make a small ball of putty from green stuff. Mix 3 parts yellow to 1 part blue, and press it into the area where you want the pouch to be. Work the putty into the desired shape - that is squarish, roundish to rectangular etc.
When it has cured take an even smaller ball of putty and place it on top of the pouch - let it set for five minutes. As I am sure you have guessed we are about to do the top flap.
With a flat or round sculpting tool, sculpt the flap into the desired shape and with a damp hobby knife trim any excess off.
At this stage, you can finish the fur - just be careful not to accidental touch the flap. I always do the actual fur last as this allows me to tie everything together. As I have already done a tutorial on fur I will be brief. Add balls of putty to the underling layer. Use the 3 yellow to 1 blue mix for this, and allow the putty to set for 5 to 10 minutes. Then with a needle, sculpt the fur detail into the putty using a short, wave like motion. When you have added fur to the whole area; add folds with a damp hobby knife. You can see the folds in the second pic below. Set it aside to dry
Well that is a wrap. I hope the article helps anyone out there who is beginning to collect Space Wolves and wants to try a few simple techniques to give your models some originality or theme. If there are any questions please ask in the comments below. I promise to get back to you - but sometimes it might take a while due to work and life obligations.
Farewell and good health,