Sunday, July 31, 2011

The Ork Nob and other Domestic Adventures!

Hi everyone,

I know I haven't been a good blogger lately, but this situation unfortunately will persist up to about the end of November.  I have currently taken out a home loan and bought myself an apartment, simply because renting is not a viable long term option anymore in this country.

To save a couple of thousand euros, I bought the flat in shell form and I am currently working on it on my spare time.  I have to bring it to a livable standard by the end of October, because by then I have to move out of my current apartment.



Due to this current state of affairs, my time has been eaten out by plumbing, wiring, plastering and tile layering.  In the meantime, I have packed up nearly everything except the essentials, and stored it in my mom's garage until the move is complete.

In the meantime I have found some old pictures of one my first attempts at sculpting - one of the more presentable attempts at least.  I plan to paint it up next year.




The fur cloak and shoulder pads were worked out separately, to simplify painting.  The ammo-belt and  a lot of the plates are removable as well.


The weapons were the most fun to make, as well as being the part which offered the highest learning curve.  I have never done anything with card before and in the process discovered the wonderful material called dope.  And yes, that is a button from  a calculator on the gun!


I will probably re-visit the hand on this power-axe since it came out somewhat smallish compared to the other.



As you can see from the pics, I have used a variety of materials to make this model.  The reason was purely experimentation and to get to know the materials at my disposal better - their properties, workability and cost effectiveness.  If I had to re-do the model I would probably use completely different materials, as well as less types.

Well that concludes my once monthly post.  See you again next month for another post or two - if I can get it in.


Farewell and good health,

       NR

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Another Open Letter to GW

Hi everyone,

I saw this on Beasts of War and I have decided to post it up as well.  I have already posted the open letter from Kirby who more or less pointed out the consumer's reasons why GW's policy is not beneficial to the hobby.  I think this video address the same matter from the retail side. Here it is.



 
Well that is all for now.  Until next time.


Farewell and good health,

       NR

Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Promethean Sun

Hi one and all,

I was the seventy-fifth of three thousand that managed to get hold of Promethean Sun, the collocetor's edition that could only be bought as a web exclusive through the Black Library site.  It was a 30 minute ordeal which ended up with me placing three orders instead one, due to the number of times I attempted to log on and actually arrive at payment.



This is my first collector's edition I bought from BL.  I had to buy this book you see, since I am a 30K fanatic, and I love this period of the Rogue Trader mythos were Primarchs walked along Astartes and men, and fought for the fate and soul of the human race.

The book, as I see it,  is basically the character development of Vulkan; the Primarch of the Salamaders Legion.  In the short span of this novella Nick Kyme brings out who Vulkan is and what he is.  He manages to show how demi-god-like these post-humans were, but at the same time he reveals the deep flaws in their character which marks them as part of the human family.

I don't want to give to much away with spoilers but there is a good balance between action and character development.  There are basically three battles described which might have been a bit too much and some great flashbacks into Vulkan's past.

We also get to see the relationships between the Primarch siblings and their petty rivalries as well.  I like how Kyme gives Vulkan wisdom in humility, especially how he concedes to his brothers in order achieve the greater goal.

Overall I think Nick Kyme did a good job on this one.  I would have preferred less battles and more insight into the Primarchs relationships with their legions as well as with the other two Primarchs in the book, namely Ferrus Mannus and Mortarion. 

For example a nice touch was how both Vulkan and Ferrus were smiths and crafstmen, but where Ferrus put more emphasis into function, Vulkan puts more into form, and this translates over into their characters and how they go about things - including how they wage war.

The last thing I didn't really like about the story were the two 'Dragonball GT' moments with Vulkan.  I know the Primarchs were superhuman, and I see that Kyme wanted to get this through to the readers - but these two scenes, which I will not give away, were just two much for me and I could have done without them.

What I was very disappointed with was the artwork.  I bought this book for 40 euros and I had to pay another 20 euros for postage.  That's 60 euros for a novella - a lot of money.  For this amount, I would have expected the artwork to be all original.

In the mid-section we get a fold out painting of the cover, fine but I would have prefered something different since it is already on the cover! We also get armour pictures of the legions in the book taken from the Index Astartes publications. I was expecting something more in the Osprey tradition, but that's just me and my crazy opinions.

The worst though, is that of all the three Primarchs we only get a picture of Mortarion - the Primarch that is featured the least in the novella - and it is not even an original drawing!  I was at least expecting to see a painted plate of Vulkan, but maybe may logic is flawed or not on par with BL Publishing.

Overall I give the story a strong 7 out of 10, basing my judgment more on subjective preference rather than objectivity. I give the product's look and artistic content a 5 out of 10.  The beautiful cover and faux-salamander hide the only redeeming factors.

So overall I don't regret buying the book.  I enjoyed the story and now I am interested in reading Kyme's salamander trilogy. Still, I was a bit disappointed with the artistic content and I honestly was expecting more.

Thursday, May 19, 2011

An Open letter to GW:- A Kirby re-post

Hi everyone,

Like most hobbyists out there I was very disappointed with GW's new price hike and controlling.  Although the shipping conditions do not affect me, I feel a strong solidarity to my fellow 40K gamers and modelers abroad and I would like to see GW treat us ALL with respect and consideration.  We are what makes the hobby popular and the bottom line is that we keep it alive and pay this company's wages.

So I have decided to reprint Kirby's open letter to GW and hope they read it.



To Games Workshop,

Why? No seriously, why? I'm sure the excuse of cutting off Australasia and other countries (Canada, India, Korea, South American countries, etc.) to benefit the independent and GW store sales in Australia sounded good but unless you cut the prices here to not be a ridiculous 200% higher price than overseas, it's not going to happen. Let's look at this logically. You've stopped us from buying from stores like Maelstrom and Wayland with an embargo agreement in your Terms and Conditions (remember globalisation? how's that going btw?). Does this mean we are going to now buy at RRP in Australia or other countries? No.


There are other outlets overseas we can buy from which are still much cheaper (hi America), other companies which you cannot touch without raising a helluva lot of crap (hi ebay) and people who are willing to ship to us overseas (hello family and friends) without the 200% tax. We won't be getting as huge a discount as before but it's much better than buying here at RRP. The other option is of course going to be quitting which I imagine some people are going to do. Check out this thread on WargamerAU where a lot of people are indicating they are. The ultimate bottom line? Your bottom line suffers (more people leaving) and the retailers in Australia do not benefit.

Now I'm all for one in supporting the locals. I buy all my products such as spray paint, paints, plasticard, magnets, drills + bits, modelling putty, brushes, etc. from Australia. As an aside, do you actually stock good quality merchandise for all of those options? I don't see you selling plasticard, magnets, good sized drillbits, custom bases, etc. I'd be happy to pay a 5-10% premium on these objects compared to other stores to support your business but then again, I don't really want to support your business currently do I? The point of any business is to make a profit but the problem with your business model is you do not do this whilst concurrently supporting your customer base. We don't ask for much but a short list would look like...

  • not raising prices every year, without fail, regardless of the economic situation or inflation rates
  • basing prices around the world upon exchange rates (I wouldn't be averse to paying 20% more in Australia compared to the UK or America locally but I am adverse to paying twice as much) - there are circumstances in each country that make operating there more or less expensive but you need a base retail price for your product which is then translated by exchange rates at a given time (i.e. quarterly) rather than a price set many, many years ago. It's part of being in a global market.
  • regular and quick FAQs - you've done a fantastic job IMO of creating some pretty balanced books for 5th edition, fix the grey areas quickly.
  • official erratas - man up and admit you've made mistakes (hi Tyranids) and work on erratas that are official and re-print the books with these amendments. Admitting a mistake and fixing it isn't a problem and I'd applaud you for it. Ignoring a problem is.
  • fix Fantasy - you did it with 40k, why go backwards with Fantasy?
  • don't think your customer base is moronic - the resin re-cast to be cheaper than metals whilst hiking prices, not fooling anyone.
Ultimately people in Australia and other countries go overseas for their Games Workshop products for a reason: it's significantly cheaper (I.e. half price). What motivation is there to therefore buy from our locals when you aren't treating your customers with loyalty and support? People will walk away and your bottom line will hurt. A simple solution: care about your customers. Change the Australian (and other countries) prices so they are at least similar to the UK and US. This doesn't have to be the exact same price but some parity would be greatly appreciated.

Here's a quick example. If you could buy a similar product for $45 compared to $150, what would you do? How about if the product was the exact same but if you ordered it overseas it was $80 compared to $150 by the time it reached your door step? I'm pretty sure you'd want to take the cheaper option correct? For you as a company, you make your profit margin through the reseller regardless of where it is purchased. You may make more money off a direct sale at an Australian store compared to an Internet sale from the UK but you have already achieved the profit margin from the Internet sale already. The Australian stores may be hurting but this is down to the initial price you have set, not market trends. Simply put, you are alienating customers from a large and developing market
.

I and many of the readers here obviously enjoy your game. We've played it through thick and thin (4th edition...) or come back thanks to an improvement game balance (5th edition) and don't want to leave. We will though sooner or later if you keep piling on idiotic choices on us. Other companies like Privateer Press did very well in the early to mid-2000s for a reason and people will migrate to other gaming systems if you continue to mistreat them and their loyalty.


As it stands I question why you do the things you do. Raising prices every year annoys me but I cannot complain too loudly as your products are a luxury item but you do not provide excellent customer service one usually expects with such goods. I certainly find minimal fault with your staff or when your product is damaged/faulty but your overarching business model seems counter-intuitive to maintaining a customer base. Even if you are getting a large amount of new customers imagine how much better off your company would be if you had maintained a significant portion of your repeat customers. The model you are running currently to me does not seem sustainable as your turnover rate in customers is just too high. I applaud your efforts in making 40k 5th edition a more competitive game but what you've done to Fantasy 8th edition doesn't bode well for the future.


Please, look to satisfy both the shareholders and the customer rather than just the former.


Kirby.


Well, that is it.  Well said and written Kirby!  I agree wholeheartedly with you.  Personally, I have already reduced my spending drastically two price hikes ago.  I no longer build new Citadel armies; I have switched to 15mm fantasy armies; and only buy citadel models to paint and display.

Also, I only use my old fantasy armies that I bought years ago whenever I play 25-28mm fantasy games and the only army I have rebuild lately was my Space Wolves which I have bought exclusively from Maelstrom Games and Ebay.

The only side suffering from my decision is GW, and as a result many other companies and games systems have benefited like - Infinity, Warmachine, Hell Dorado & Malifaux. Not to mention the enrichment and broadening of my gaming experience.

There are also other options like playing smaller games like Killzone and Mordheim.  You only need a dozen models and they are great fun to play.

I encourage everyone to do the same.  If you do, I am confident that in the future we will see a giant bend the knee.


Farewell and good health,


       NR

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Fenrisian Wolves

Hi one and all,

It's been a while since I have updated my blog, I know, but at the club we have been caught up in the Warhammer 8th edition frenzy and so everyone has been updating their armies. So I swam with the current and spent some quality time with my Wood Elves. Now I am not a big fan of Warhammer fantasy, simply because I think the game is a skirmish battle pretending to be a wargame. The rules mechanics are fine, if not excellent for Mordheim, but fall short for mass battles. In fact we are developing a fantasy game from the Fog of War historical rules which we think are awesome. But that is another story!

Well, on the side, I started and have nearly finished an experiment I wanted to try. I have played a few games with Fenrisian wolf packs led by a Wolf Guard sergeant on a Thunder Wolf to good effect most of the time, but I was playing with proxy models. So I decided to build up some relatively cheap temporary models for this unit until GW issues us with some official models for Fenrisian packs and Thunder Wolves. Below is what I came up with.

Well, as I was looking for models to use for my Fenrisian Wolf pack I stumbled upon DJ Batman's blog. He had an article about how a guy named Franz made his fen.wolves out of the Chaos Warhounds and goblin wolf heads. here is the link below:

http://dj-batman.blogspot.com/ 



I liked the idea so much I decided to give the concept a shot with my own take on it. I decided to buy a box of chaos warhounds and started to search for some goblin wolf heads on the online bit stores. At first I did not have much luck until I stumbled upon four lots on Ebay selling five goblin wolf heads and tails in each lot. I bought them all.



When everything arrived I glued together the chaos warhound's bodies together and removed all the spikes, sores and scales. At this point the warhounds can pass as proxy fen.wolves, and for the less industrious of us wargamers this would be a good compromise, but I wanted them to look more wolf-like. So I cut of the top part of their heads from the jaws upwards and fitted in the goblin wolf heads. This takes further cutting and trimming of both parts, and if anyone wants to try it out, please take precautions or extra care not to hurt yourselves. The next step was to attached the goblin wolf tails. This could not be simpler. Just drill holes in the tails and the warhound's backsides; insert a metal rod (usually a piece of paperclip) for strength and glue together.



Now that the heads and tails were glued into place I started to fill in the gaps with epoxy putty to add strength and I used green stuff for some minor sculpting to smoothen things out between the head and jaws. I also wanted to add a crest of fur along the back of the warhound to connect its mane to the tail. I let everything to dry out in the summer sun for two hours until every thing was cured.



The next step is to build up the mane of the wolves with green stuff. The secret to this is something I have mentioned several times on this blog. Do it in steps! One layer - let it cure - do another layer - and so on. For the mane I used small rolls of putty tapered at one end and sculpted with a clay pusher tool with an angle chisel.

When all the models were ready, and this took me just ten hours including the time for the putty to cure in Maltese summer temperatures, I based coated the models with Astronomican Grey.




The next step now is to go on and paint the lot, but that is something for another chapter of my blog.

So until Russ wear flowers in his hair and sings kumbayah, keep playing Space Wolves! thumbsup.gif


Farewell and good health,

       NR

Sunday, March 6, 2011

Diorama Base Nearly Ready

Hi everyone,

I have finally found the time to finish the Wolfguard diorama, between the madness the Libyan situation is causing in the Hotel industry in this little country and my other commitments.  But finally I can post some pics.



I have to admit that I have always found this 30mm heroic scale very perplexing regards to scaling, even though it is forgiving.  I was worried that the diorama would end up too big or extended.  In fact I think it is but I will not try to correct it at this stage.  I leave it as a lesson to tighten up more the composition in the future.



As you can see I have finished the base coats and know I will start the detailing and high and low lights.  Hopefully, time permitting it will be ready.  Unfortunately it will have to take the back bench since I have to prepare for some mid-terms.


Farewell and good health,

       NR

Monday, February 28, 2011

Grenadier - Mirliton SG - 15mm Orcs

Hi everyone,

As some might know by now I have started wargaming in 15mm.  I do have two armies in 10mm that I am finishing up and will post here on my blog, but I don't have any 15mm armies.  So I have decided to start two armies in this scale - Orcs and Dwarves.

The reason is they are the commonest races at this scale and the best in quality, unlike the Elves and other races.  You might have also seen my review on the 15mm Orcs and Goblins from the superb Splintered Light range, they are worth taking a closer look at if you are interested in fantasy wargaming at this scale.

The Orcs from Mirliton are the resurrected range from the defunct company Grenadier that brought out the excellent wargame entitled Fantasy Warriors, if anyone remembers.  Unfortunately the company went under, and at the time I was too into Warhammer to take a second look at this scale or these miniatures.

Well, I have long since matured in wargaming and have completely grown out of the Warhammer phase. Now since fate has given me a second chance to purchase these beauties, I don't mean to disappoint. 

To begin with I would like to take a look at the rank and file miniatures of this range.



As you can see they are beautiful models with solid poses, and very detailed as well for their scale.  Unlike the Splintered Light Orcs that have a Warhammer-ish look to them, these are rather more Tolkien-ish.  Both styles are fine, depending on your taste.

There are two Orc Warior packs (QOR005 & QOR006) that cost €2.79 each with vat included afterwards. Each pack comes with 8 Orcs, with four different types.

The second batch of models I have up for review today are the command packs (QOR001 & QOR002).  Each pack costs €1.67 with vat added at the checkout phase as well. Each pack consists of four figures including a leader, a standard bearer,  a musician and a champion.

Just like their rank and file counterparts they are very well done for sculpts that were done about 2 decades ago.




Postage and packing is fixed and registered, so I recommend buying in bulk to reduce postage costs.  They usually arrive after two weeks but might take longer if you are ordering outside the EU, so I suggest finding a supplier in your part of the world.

Farewell and good health,

       NR

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Talent Not Required – MOTW & WTN

Disclaimer .... of sorts
Before I start the tutorial I just would like to say a few words why I am doing it. I received a few requests about how I did a few things and since all I know has come from the help and experience of others more talented than myself I feel an obligation, a debt if you like, to help others when they ask me. Just to be clear I am not trying to show off or be condescending, if fact if you read the blog I don't go into the detail shown in this article. I believe that the more you help others improve in their hobby, the investment comes back around with other modelers inspiring me with their works and making me want to improve more. That's all.

So in this tutorial I will be detailing how I did the Mark of the Wulfen (MOTW) and the Wolf Tooth necklaces (WTN) in a bit more detail than what's in the blog entry. Ideally I would of liked to do some short videos on how to do certain things since it is easier to see it done than explain it, but I am not equipped at the moment for such things, so I will do my best to explain it with word and photos.

Step One – The Materials

The materials I used to make the MOTW and WTN are duro epoxy-putty (greenstuff), talcum power, and two sculpting tools – one with a point and another with a flat tapering point. You will also need a sharp modeling knife or blade, pliers and cutters, super glue and plastic cement, and a hobby drill.


Step Two – Posing the Model

The posing of the MOTW is very simple. It is a just a matter of cutting the model in the right places and repositioning them in a natural position. By the way, don't forget to shave off all the Choas iconography with a sharp knife and pin file.

The best way to cut Space Marines is from the interconnecting parts of their armour. Make the cut and scrap off all of the interconnecting section.



Next, take the hobby drill, and drill holes in both sections and insert a thin bendable metal rod, like a paper clip. Make sure the drilled holes are centralized to insure a good fit and cut the rod to guarantee the right proportion for the leg.

Now just bend and position the part until it is what you are looking for and and has a natural position, then glue it into place.



Now mix up some green stuff and build up the interconnecting selection of the armour. This is quite easy. First place the putty and smooth it out into the required shape. Remember it should not be level with the armour but a bit lower. Then take the flat tapering pointed sculpting tool and with the edge slowly and carefully insert groves. Don't worry if you make any mistakes, just smooth everything over again and redo it. The picture below shows a very quick example I wiped up for the tutorial. Unlike the pic try to make the groves closer together.



Step Three - The Arms

The arms come from the Chaos marauder cavalry box set. It would be a simple matter to just glue the arms on and cover the joint with the main shoulder-pad, but with a bit of extra work you can get far better results.

Space Marines have a smaller minor shoulder-pad (in lieu of a better description) under the main one. The pic below shows this better. For better fits it would be wise to build this up with putty.


There is not need to make it perfect, just a good fit. Add epoxy-putty and form a rough shape similar to the minor shoulder-pad. Then take a main shoulder pad with some talcum powder on it and press it on to the putty to imprint the shape. The talcum powder serves as a non-stick layer. Gently take off the main shoulder-pad and leave the putty on the arm dry.



When it is dry just use your hobby knife and trim off the excess and give it a fine sanding to smooth it out.

N.B. : Before doing the above first make sure of the positioning you want to achieve. You might find that you have to attach the arm with a metal rod first and add the putty after to achieve a natural position. The possibilities are many and it is impossible to cover them all, but with these basics you should be fine.

Step Four – The Wolf Tooth Necklace

This is the most time consuming section of the modeling process. It does not require any particular talent to do (if it did I would not be able to do it!), just some patience and determination.

First of all, a word on green stuff. I use a 3 part yellow to 1 part blue mixture nearly exclusively with all my modeling. This is something I learned from the great Bill Horan at the UK expo. The putty still cures hard at this ratio and gives you a better flexible sculpting medium to work with.


First you need to drill small holes in the shoulder-pads. This is done with the hobby drill naturally. In the photo below I used a thicker bit than I should of. This is because my last fine bit snapped and I did not feel like crossing the island to buy one. I will fill in the excess later with putty.



As you can seen I paint up the shoulder-pad before hand. This is done on purpose. Unlike other epoxy putties, green stuff does not release residue when you add water or when brushed, unlike Miliput, Andrea Sculpt, or Magic Sculpt etc. It would be more difficult and painstaking to paint on the markings and add decals after adding the WTN. This is an advantage green stuff gives you.

Next, mix up some green stuff and roll it out on a smooth surface as thinly as possible with your finger. Be gentle and don't press too hard or else you will flatten it. Don't roll out long sections either, keep them short; it is more manageable. For better results spread some talcum powder on the surface and on your fingers, don't use too much though since talcum reduces the stickiness of the putty. If you prefer you can also use water which does not reduce the stickiness but does reduce visibility due to refraction.



Now just cut the string of putty to an acceptable length and attach it to the shoulder pad. Fit the ends into the holes drilled with your needle tool. Now at this stage, while the putty is soft, you have to set the string of putty in a way that gives the impression of looking taut but with a naturally looking curve due to the weight of the teeth and other stuff attached to it. This is done simply by gentle pushing the putty string with a sculpting tool. Now put the model in a safe place and let it cure properly for a few hours. You can decrease curing time with gentle heating ( even down to 10 minutes if necessary) but be careful you don't warp the plastic model.



Now the hard part. The teeth. First, a tip. Freshly mixed putty works better for attaching the teeth, so mix minute quantities (unless you don't mind wasting or are working on something else simultaneously) and don't use putty that has cured too long or you will risk your sanity.

After mixing the putty, roll it out and cut it into small parts. Do not use talcum powder; you need the putty to be sticky. Just dampen your knife and fingers when working.



Now gently taper a side of the small parts into a point with your finger. Be gentle and consistent in the pressure you apply. The pic below shows the results of this with different sizes of teeth.


Now with a dampened needle tool touch the root of the tooth and pick it up. You might need to apply a bit of pressure, but if the putty is fresh and sticky this should not be a problem. Take the tooth to the putty string on the shoulder-pad and with the patience of the gods position it according to the curve of the shoulder-pad. Also try to curve the teeth a bit at the point, it looks more natural, don't leave them straight. Always start positioning teeth from one of the ends of the putty string. Don't start from the middle. When the tooth is attached take the needle tool, dampen it, and use it to press in a hole at the top near the string.


This process can be tricky, but there is really no other way for me to explain it. To make it easier, if you are working on several models, then just stick two teeth on each, indent at the top, and let dry and then stick some more and let dry again. This way you won't risk squashing the teeth you already have placed. It also gives you more space to maneuver. Also, if you don't manage to attach the tooth within two or three attempts, put everything down for a minute, take a deep breath and try again. Trust me on this, don't struggle with the putty.

If you would like to add runes, then this is even easier. Just add a small blob of putty under the string and with the sculpting tool flatten it out, shape it and use the point to mark runes in it. Always dampen the tool or cover it with a thin layer of talcum powder. I prefer talcum when doing this. Now add a hole on top near the string and put it aside to cure.


When all the teeth and runes are attached and cured, it should look something like the photo below. Now at this stage I like to give the work a quick coating of matte varnish to help seal everything and leave it another hour to dry. The next step is to attach the teeth and runes to the putty string.


 This is simple and easy. Roll out a very thin piece of putty and cut off a small part (note that it must be long enough to reach over the putty string on the shoulder-pad). Pick it up with the needle tool in the same fashion for the teeth, and gently but firmly place one end in the hole at the top of the tooth. Tuck it in with the point of the needle tool and bend it over the string. Now tuck the other end into the string and delicately remove the excess. Slowly yet surely repeat the process and Viola! Your tooth necklace is finished. Now you just have to paint it in.



These figures are just for gaming so I don't bother with extra work of fine tuning them. I leave that for dioramas and other 'showcase' pieces. But if you are a gamer who wants more than just a presentable army; if you want your army to be a collective showcase piece like many gamers on this forum then take more time on them and you will be able to achieve stunning results, especially if you have some talent, which sadly I do not possess.

Well that's all for now. I hope I have covered all the difficulties that might arise, and I hope you all find it useful in some way or another. If there are points that you did not understand or that you would have explained better (maybe with some more pics) or have another related question please leave your question in the comments section and I will be more than happy to answer it or clarify or even add to this entry. No problem whatsoever, so don't be shy.

Farewell and good health,

       NR

Saturday, February 12, 2011

The Long Fangs

Hi one and all,

I have just finished modeling my first Long Fang Pack and I have decided to post up a few pics. I planned on building up a second LF pack in the future and they will have all the same pack markings. Why? Well because it will allow me to try out different weapon load-outs and tailor-make the LF against the army I'm fighting or the mission at hand. I current have built up two missile launchers, two heavy bolters, and one lascannon. My next pack will contain two missile launchers, one plasma cannon, one multi-melta cannon, and another lascannon.

Longfangs



I managed to buy two old LF boxes in near mint condition from a player at the club disgruntled with GW. I bought two boxes for the price of one. I decided to buy them for the old SW sprue and because I like the feel (weight) of metal. In hindsight, I think I made an enormous mistake. They are some of the most ill-fitting models I have ever seen. In fact, since I will be painting up the weapons and models separately I will have to model-up the part where the backpack and weapon connect with some putty after they are painted. An enormous hassle for such a lazy person as myself!

Well, I guess it can't be helped. I'll just have to watch one of those motivational movies before I start them. But if anyone values the opinion of a 'lazy-I'll-do-it-tomorrow-with-the-least-effort-possible-in-order-to-get-a-decent-job' modeler, then please trust me and buy the new plastic devastator box and save yourselves the angst!

That's all for now, but before I go I just would like to thank everyone who has commented over the last 3 months and I would like to apologize in advance if I don't get back straight away. Life can be a hassle at times.

So until the mighty Russ paints his armour pink, keep painting and modelling in the fantastic world of 40K.

Farewell and good health,

       NR

LinkWithin

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...
/* Sidebar Content */ #'BlogList1'{ height:200px; overflow:auto; } .sidebar .widget{ height:250px; overflow:auto; } .sidebar .widget{ height:200px; overflow:auto; }